Angelo's Italian Deli: The Real Deal

Overview: If it weren’t for the cool ocean breezes and lack of snow on the sidewalk in the dead of winter, I could swear I was crossing Mulberry Street in New York City’s Little Italy, rather than the tiny one-way avenue of La Verne in Belmont Shore.  

A pair of black and white-striped awnings hang heavy over the tiny side street building which houses Angelo’s Italian Deli.  In front are a smattering of tables, which tend to teeter if you lean too hard on their surfaces, and a handful of chairs that are perpetually askew. 

Until last year Angelo’s consisted of a snug, single storefront crammed with Italian imports and a sandwich counter that resembled rush hour traffic on the 405 Freeway during lunchtime.  A vacant space next door allowed Angelo’s to expand--almost doubling its square footage-- creating a semi-separation between the deli and market.  And, while places like the Olive Garden are nothing more than fictitious names, Angelo’s is the real deal. 

Angelo Maricuiliano, who hails from the heel of boot-shaped Italy, is the man behind the mostacholi and can often be seen scurrying about at both his Belmont Shore and Seal Beach namesakes.  

Decor: In a word Angelo’s ambiance is authentic.  It doesn’t pretend to be some gourmet destination brimming with confit, tapenade, and other items displaying the latest culinary jargon across their packaging; instead Angelo’s stays true to its roots as an ethnic deli and market filling a much-needed niche in The Shore.  Shelves are filled with imported dried pastas, as well as cans of tomato sauce, jars of specialty spices, and bottles of Italian wines.  The glass case that holds the selection of deli meats and cheeses, premade pasta salad, lasagna and petite cannoli dominates most of the shop and the open space behind is where some of the best sandwiches are assembled. 

The Food: With a name like Angelo’s Italian Deli there are no unexpected surprises.  It’s just simple, good Italian offerings.  Everything—and I mean everything—is made on the premises or prepared at Angelo’s Seal Beach shop and trucked across the county line to Belmont Shore:  the sauces, pasta dishes, ricotta-filled cannoli, and even the ciabatta bread.  

Only the baguette, which is made to Mr. Maricuiliano's specifications and delivered fresh daily, is outsourced. 

 The sandwich menu is endless with nearly 25 varieties that can be served cold or panini-style (grilled). Combinations include the Calabrese with cured salami and blue cheese; the Caprese featuring fresh mozzarella with sliced tomato and basil topped with arugula; and the Toscano, a simple sandwich of Tuscan-style dry salami.  Each comes on a choice of baguette or ciabatta and is drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar and topped with romaine lettuce, sliced tomato and onion. 

The garlic spread, an Angelo’s signature condiment that looks as if it’s been applied like spackle, gives each sandwich a distinct and tasteful edge. 

Small sandwiches run about $6-7, while the large variety averages $9-10 and is ideal for sharing.  Angelo’s also offers eggplant parmesan and lasagna, which the staff touts as a single serving but I was able to get three helpings out of my order.  As for presentation – sandwiches are wrapped in old-fashioned butcher paper and hot items are placed in sturdy plastic containers. 

If you want a little bada-bing, check out the tiny freezer near the entrance where a stash of plastic cartons contain some incredibly delicious spumoni ice cream. 

Service:  I find I get the best service at Angelo’s when I call ahead to place my order.  It’s always ready when they say it will be.  As for the staff, the regulars that work behind the counter are very friendly. 

During the summer Angelo’s is my go-to place for the Thursday night concerts at  Marina Vista Park, and those around me tend to drool with every bite I take.  As for the high school kids that work at Angelo’s during their summer break, well they can sometimes sport some serious attitude.  If only Tony Soprano were in charge, he’d whip those kiddies into shape or have them swimmin’ with the fishes in no time.

ANGELO'S ITALIAN DELI

Address: 190 La Verne Ave.  Phone: 562-434-1977
Cost: $
Hours: Tues.-Sat., 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sun., 10 a.m.-4 p.m.
Disabled Access: Yes
Parking Info: Curbside parking in front for take-out orders; metered parking along Second Street and LaVerne; free parking along sidestreets.
Restaurant type: Italian deli & market
Restaurant attributes: Casual, take-out market. Credit cards accepted. Limited outdoor seating. Call ahead.