Kelly's of Naples: Ring-a-Ding-Ding

Overview: When I saw the banner “Closed for Remodeling” dangling from the brick façade of Kelly’s late last year, I immediately thought the worst—another Long Beach landmark bites the dust.  In these challenging economic times, “closed for remodeling” is often code for “out of business.” 

Thankfully, the restaurant’s new owner proved me wrong.  Kelly’s, which opened in 1958 on Naples Island, did what many aging Southern Californians do—it underwent a facelift. Just a few nips and tucks; enough to make the restaurant feel refreshed while evoking a sense of familiarity. 

Visible changes included the removal of a wall that separated the entrance from the restaurant, giving the snug space a more open feel. A partition at the far end of the bar is also gone and the open space is filled with a baby grand piano. Kelly’s never looked better.  

Decor: Kelly’s is as much of a joint as it is a fine dining restaurant. Big chocolate leather banquets, rich wood paneling, dimly lit lanterns dangling from above and hushed conversation, which swells through the room, feels as if the spirits of the Rat Pack are somehow being channeled through the old-school vibe. And, as if on cue, the pianist takes to the ivories with a classic Dean Martin tune. 

Every stool at the bar is filled with imbibers sipping double-olive martinis, gin and tonics, and, who knows, maybe even a retro gimlet or Tom Collins. The only things missing from this swinging '60s scene are cigarettes dangling from well-manicured fingers, and a few Mad Men behaving badly.

The Food: With the sudden onset of foodies and self-described gastronomes, I was half expecting the new owner to have abandoned the restaurant’s Continental menu in favor of more trendy fare. So I was pleasantly surprised to find many, if not most, of Kelly’s tried and true dishes prominently displayed, including the escargot, shrimp cocktail, lobster bisque, beef tenderloin stroganoff and long list of steak and seafood entrees. Everything is a la carte, and is one of the few restaurants I know of where whole anchovies crown the Caesar salad. 

A bar menu consists of more casual fare and, as expected, is served at the bar only. Selections include a double-dip prime rib sandwich, a juicy burger with cheese and bacon, plus picked onions served on a baguette or grilled sourdough, a Dungeness crab sandwich, fish and chips, and macaroni and cheese, just to name a few.  Kelly’s also offers a menu of premium spirits, wine by the bottle or glass, and a selection of draft beer. 

Service: It would be a shame if Kelly’s had all these wonderful attributes, but didn’t deliver on service. However, service proves to be Kelly’s calling card. 

It starts with valet service ($4) and continues with a greeting from the maître d'.  The servers are skilled waiters who have been schooled in the art of hospitality, knowing just the right moments when a bit of attentiveness is needed. The busboy, a young and friendly high school-aged kid, is equally good with his timing—clearing plates and glasses before they’ve had a chance to linger too long.  Bottom line: Kelly’s is as much your father’s steakhouse as it is your own, and I might add, so very Don Draper. 

Address: 5716 E. Second St., Belmont Shore
Cost: $$-$$$
Hours: Open daily from 4 p.m. for cocktails, dining room opens at 5 p.m.
Disabled Access: Yes
Parking Info: Valet parking - $4; street parking
Restaurant type: retro steak and seafood
Restaurant attributes: Business casual, full bar, dining room and bar seating, live pianist. Credit cards accepted. Not suitable for young children.